Troubles with Bubbles

Basic skin care starts with proper cleansing. Most cleansers will rid the skin of dirt and oils and flush away bacteria. This is done by literally dissolving grime and dirt for release into an easy to remove solution by rinsing. Soap is a very effective, easily available, a convenient cleanser that seems to perform these functions.

Composed of fatty acids (usually animal fat but sometimes vegetable fats or oils) and lye, the soap molecule is double-ended; one end likes grease and grime and the other likes water. The grease-loving end attaches itself to dirt on the skin and the water-loving end then puts the grease into solution to be rinsed away -- at least, that is the way it is supposed to work.

The problem is that minerals and other substances in tap water can interfere with the process, preventing the fatty acids from going into a water-soluble solution. Residue left on the skin by inefficient rinsing can clog pores and leave a medium for bacteria to grow. When this happens, fatty acids adhere to the skin instead, leaving a thin, gooey, soap scum film composed of alkali calcium and sodium residue. Being more basic than skin's normal pH range, scum also dehydrates the skin and disturbs the natural, acidic protective mechanism. Loss of elasticity results, due to dehydration. As stated in the Standard Textbook of Professional Esthetics, "dehydration is the single most important factor in creating visible signs of aging".

Is your cleanser good for your skin?

The skin's main function is to protect the structures beneath it, provide a medium for the secretion of perspiration and sebum and the generation of hair. Beauty and health care professionals should have at least a working knowledge of skin physiology and skin care in order to speak intelligently and properly to counsel clients on proper care of their skin.

Skin has two main levels, the dermis and epidermis. The dermis is the lower layer containing blood vessels, hair roots, sweat glands and nerves. The epidermis is the top layer, consisting of several layers of cells pushing their way to the surface is succession. In doing this, they become flatter, harder and dryer. By the time they reach the skin's surface they are dead cells, eventually to be sloughed away. The dermis, although thicker than the epidermis, is still only about 16/1000 of an inch thick. Basically, humans are thin-skinned creatures.

Even so, skin is amazingly tough, containing two of the strongest substances in the human body, collagen and elastin. Within the epidermis (as well as hair and nails) is another protein substance that forms a protective barrier against disease causing bacteria and other skin irritants. This substance is keratin. The protein bonds that form collagen: elastin and keratin are incredibly strong, but not unbreakable. Skin care products should protect skin's natural protective barriers. Many products contain acids or bases that are outside the normal pH range of healthy skin, when such products are used everyday, as most are, skin damage can occur.

How do "over the counter" cosmetic cleansers fair?

Sadly, not very well since most people are continually searching for the "next best thing".

What usually decides the success of one product over another?

The answer is simply, expensive eye catching marketing techniques. Consumers want the pretty package to take home, the pretty color that will match the décor, and of course, pretty smell to scent the room. In many cases, unless one has had an adverse reaction to a specific product, one product is as good as another is. But, what is in that package? Many contain a combination of the following: "lye, alkyl sulfate, alkyl glycerol, sulfonate, sodium sulfate, chloride salts and sanitizing agents, sodium and potassium salts of fatty acids prepared from edible fats in addition to dyes and perfumes" as stated in Clinical Toxicology of Commercial Products.

Do liquid soaps or cold cremes work as cleansers?

Well, they are soaps too. The difference is that some liquid cleansers are diluted down with water, glycerin, mineral oil or some other petroleum derivative to a liquefied or crème state. Cold cremes, the long time favorite of performance artists, to rid the skin of grease paint makeup, is, again, another soap type of cleanser. In cold cremes the lye is replaced by sodium borate, another alkaline compound commonly known as borax. The borax is mixed with mineral oil, water, synthetic gum, waxes, and sometimes a bit of fragrance.

Are the uses of herbal cleansers new to the beauty industry?

Herbal cleansers have been used for centuries as an effective, efficient and convenient method to cleanse the skin of dirt, grime, debris, and pollutants. Herbal cleansers do not react to the ions in tap water and will leave no residue on the skin. Because they are biodegradable and produce lower suds, less water is needed to rinse off. "Mother Nature" has provided ingredient's that are compatible to the skin's pH, sweet birch bark and white oak bark. Sweet birch bark is composed of a high percentage of esters and has a delightfully fragrant essence. White oak bark has been used cure hides, after all: what is skin?

FANIÉ's Approach to Cleansing

FANIÉ International spearheaded the use of botanical cleanser's considered the ultimate in affordable, effective cleansing.

FANIÉ's Sweet Birch Body and Bath and FANIÉ White Oak Facial Cleansers contain essential properties found in "Mother Nature's" garden, to improve the appearance of healthy skin. FANIÉ White Oak Herbal Shampoo can encourage healthy scalp and the appearance of lustrous shiny hair. Other ingredients found in FANIÉ cleansers are cayenne, sasapilla, black cohosh, fenugreek, licorice root, mint, garlic, rosemary, alfalfa, mullein, goldenseal, dandelion, sage and parsley. FANIÉ cleansers are concentrated; a little goes a long way. Experience a difference you can see and feel today, tomorrow and well into the next century.

References: Science of Herbal Medicine, John Heineman; A modern Herbal: A Modern Herbal, Mrs. M. Greive; Essential Herba, Lalitha Thomas; Miracle Medicine Herbs, Richard M. Lucas; Magic and Medicine of Plants, Reader's Digest: The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils, Julia Lawless; Herbs and Things, Jeanne Rose; and educational materials provided by Estheticians Pharmacology Research Institute (EPRI), California, 92614, (949) 598-4500 or www.fanie.com Email: sales@fanie.com.

NOTE: Due to some FDA and CA-DHS concerns, the text of this article has been modified from it's original publication. It was brought to our attention that the original text may have mislead some viewers into thinking that FANIÉ cleansers could cure various disease. FANIÉ does not claim that any of it's products can cure disease and we appologize if the text from the original article or any of our articles left that impression.