Once touted as "wonder ingredients" in the battle against the visible signs of skin aging, creams and lotions containing alphahydroxy and glycolic acids are not the favored darlings skin care professionals and consumers at large once thought they were. This is evidenced by the step back glycolic and alphahydroxy-containing products have taken from the skin care limelight in recent months. Fewer manufacturers seem to be strutting their claims to products containing these ingredients as the tide of consumers eager to buy them has waned. Press hoopla has diminished and so have media advertisements. The grand and glorious benefits of glycolic and alphahydroxy-containing products is no longer the biggest buzz in the skin care industry...

So what happened? To be sure, the rise and fall in popularity of skin care products containing alphahydroxy and glycolic acids, can be attributed to several obvious and some not so obvious factors.

First, media hype always piques interest. When an obscure study demonstrating a possible link between certain skin care ingredients and "anti-aging" benefits is unearthed and leaked to the press, suddenly everybody wants to know about it. Wanting to know leads to wanting to try. And wanting to try drives skin care professionals and product manufacturers. Soon glycolic and alphahyroxy acids appear in therapeutic procedures and product formulations to satisfy the public's insatiable appetite for the "fountain of youth". Necessarily, a certain number of practitioners and manufacturers are diven more from financial gain than public interest. These "band wagon" jumpers ride a fad's coattails as long as the journey lasts. Once media hype subsides, these manufacturers and skin care professionals move on to greener pastures with the next "anti-aging" media breakthrough. Most certainly, this accounts for some of the disenchantment with glycolics and alphahydroxies.

Second, because glycolic and alphahyroxy products have been available to the general public for at least two years, many consumers who were once eager to try these "advances" in "anti-aging" therapy, have now had an opportunity to do so, and frankly, have discovered that these products and procedures don't always deliver what they promise. After consistent and loyal use, many consumers are now seriously questioning the supposed benefits. Some claim to have experienced little, if any, "anti-aging" effects. Little wonder. In order for such products to be sold "over the counter," they must be formulated with active ingredients too low in concentration to have any real effect on the skin. By definition, products containing acid concentrations capable of having any real effect on the skin are drugs, dispensed by prescription from professionals. But then, many consumers have likewise been disappointed by long-term use of higher-concentration products obtained from licensed practitioners for therapeutic use. Much of the disappointment stems from the negative results of acid residues left from high-concentration products which necessarily lower the skin's pH. This, in turn, has a direct and negative affect on proper skin functioning. For example, many long-term users of glycolic and alphahydroxy-containing products now note that moisturizers no longer penetrate the skin as they used to, deep-pore cleansers don't work any more, makeup tends to run and smudges easily, darkish" areas are beginning to appear as surface skin layers become thinner and more compact allowing surface capillary veins to literally show through the skin, and a slightly "bumpy" look and feel is resulting from the accumulation of oils, skin debris, and metabolic byproducts which become "trapped" under the hardened surface.

Third, skin care practitioners themselves are questioning the efficacy of glycolic and alphahydroxy products in prescriptive "anti-aging" therapy. They are observing a sudden rise in the number of patients and clients with negative consequences from long-term use of products containing these ingredients. Many professionals are now "phasing out" these treatment modalities in favor of more skin-compatible alternatives.

The reality is, the fountain of youth still eludes us. But there are some promising discoveries which may help hold Father Time at bay. Vitamin C therapy may be one of them. Another appears to be the periodic use of mechanical MICRODERMABRASION in conjunction with a natural, biocompatible skin care regimen.

Unlike deep dermabrasion, microdermabrasion can be used on any area of the body to plane dead surface cells, even the skin surface, and stimulate collagen and elastin production. There is no "down time" with microdermabrasion (the complete process, including the after-treatment firming and toning masque takes about an hour), and many people who would be poor candidates for dermabrasion due to health considerations, advanced age, or special skin problems, can be treated by microdermabrasion technique successfully. Unlike deep dermabrasion, microdermabrasion is non-invasive and painless to all but the most sensitive skin. Coupled with a natural, skin care program which helps tighten, tone, condition and encourage healthy skin growth by providing nutrition to the skin, microdermabrasion treatments can help diminish many skin imperfections. These include fine lines, discolorations, acne or other small scars. Microdermabrasion treatments, along with adherence to a proper skin care program, can also help restore the glow and natural vitality of youthful skin.

Unfortunately, many persons with skin overtreated by glycolic and alphahydroxy are not good candidates for microdermabrasion. This has much to do with the mechanical process of the microdermabrasion technique which involves shooting a thin stream of minute crystals over the surface of the skin to "dislodge and remove" the thin, upper layers of degenerative skin cells. Performed on skin which is hardened and thinned by acid treatments, and therefore more compacted, microdermabrasion may seriously irritate the skin, abrade it unevenly, further impact trapped skin debris or make skin thinner still, accentuating blotchyness. Clearly, persons who have acid-type skin, be it from overtreatment with acid-containing products or environmental damage, etc., must first prepare the skin and return it to its natural functioning before microdermabrasion treatments can be attempted. This preparatory process can be one day or one month, depending on the individual. For this purpose, FANIÉ International developed ACCENT MASQUE, a gentle, botanical, enzyme-active skin treatment which helps neutralize acid-type skin and restore normal skin functioning, while tightening, toning and conditioning skin in preparation for microdermabrasion sessions. For daily skin care, deep-pore cleansing with FANIÉ's White Oak Cleanser and daily use of the appropriate FANIÉ skin care cremes (including Vitamin C treatment creme), oils and waters, helps to properly prepare the skin to receive optimum benefit from microdermabrasion sessions. It should be noted that microdermabrasion is a treatment PROCESS. Although most individuals reportedly note a marked improvement in the appearance of their skin from the first treatment, a series of treatments supported by the prescriptive therapeutic skin care program, is recommended for maximum results.

Of all the microdermabrasion machines on the market, the "Micro-Dermabraze" is the one used and endorsed by the staff of Estheticians Pharmacology Research Institute, the long-established, well-respected facility of continuing education, located in Irvine, CA. This superior piece of esthetic equipment is considered to be the most sophisticated machine of its kind on the market.

EPRI's decision to incorporate microdermabrasion training into its curriculum, and this particular machine as its flagship equipment was not an easy one. Known for providing realistic, scientifically-referenced solutions to esthetic professionals, EPRI's long-established reputation was at stake. But after investigating the procedure, verifying the results and testing a variety of machines, EPRI chose to represent the Micro-Dermabraze for its ease of operation, effectiveness, overall design and function features, good service record and lower cost. The EPRI staff had tested a variety of machines and found design flaws in all of them. Then came the Micro-Dermabraze, researched and manufactured in Europe. The ultra light hand wand is durable and comfortable to use. The abrasive crystals flowing through it are 100% free-running, being propelled through a closed-loop, vortex system. This results in very little crystal mess or waste (unlike other units), as well as increased safety around the eye areas. Further, the crystals are supplied in sterilized containers to be used once only, eliminating the risk of contamination within the unit. Because the filters are non-clogging, they never require cleaning nor replacing. There is a power surge protector, built-in voltage converter, and an unique electronic control system to regulate both the vacuum AND the crystal flow, assuring low usage costs per client.

Over the past 2 years of field testing, operators have praised the Micro-Dermabraze for its ease of operation, dependability, and oustanding maintenance record. Much pride is invested in the manufacture of this equipment. Each is hand-assembled by skilled craftsen, tested and inspected before being shipped.

Satisfied practitioners agree that the Micro-Dermabraze offers esthetic professionals the best, safest equipment on the market today. Each machine carries a manufacturer's 1-year warranty and is backed by educational support and technical hotline.

Could the Micro-Dermabraze be the premiere unit for the burgeoning microdermabrasion business? After much testing, investigation and research, Ms. Johnson felt it did. Professionals, domestic and foreign, can use this machine with confidence. Apart from its unique features, performance record and ability to achieve positive results for esthetic clients, the Micro-Dermabraze is amazingly price-competitive. This low cost to performance ratio allows practitioners previously priced out of the microdermabrasion market an opportunity to enter the field and make respectable money and offer a more-affordable service to the public at larege. Furthr, beauty professionals need know nothing about Micro-Dermabraze operation. A comprehensive course in skin physiology, cosmetic chemistry, specialized treatments and use of the Dermabraze machine is included with every machine purchase. Provided through Estheticians Pharmacology Research Institute in Irvine, CA, the certified training course is taught by members of EPRI's capable, experienced staff, under the personal direction of Florence Johnson herself. Being a continuing education provider, EPRI can further assist in internship referrals and job placement of certificated professionals.

Individuals wanting more information on microdermabrasion, Accent Masque, or need answers to esthetic questions are encouraged to contact FANIÉ/EPRI directly.

References: Merck Index, an Encyclopedia of Chemicals and Drugs / Dorland's Illustrated Medical Dictionary / OSHA's Regulated Hazardous Substances

 

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